Just as the types of Radio Control Aircraft are many and varied and one can only present a sample and not the whole, so it is with the accessories that go with them.
If you choose to, you can fit out a model like the real thing. Retractable wheels come in basically 2 types - electric and pneumatic. The electric are cheaper and work well, where a servo (push/pull motor) moves a rod to push and pull the wheels up and down. The downside with these is that generally the speed of operation can't be changed and unless they are operated off a separate battery pack, if a stall occurs to the main battery pack there is big trouble.
The pneumatic type consist of a tank which is pumped with air before flying. A servo and valve operates the each way motion, the air conducted through narrow hose. This system is generally considered the better, as the speed of movement can be controlled by putting restrictors on the tubing, though sometimes the wheels when in the up position hang slightly down. The servos are of a heavy duty manufacture, for retracts. Some of the more talented members make their own systems and it only reinforces that radio control planes are
not toys. Some models carry cameras others have opening bays to drop objects like lollies and flour bombs. Other radio controlled planes have brakes as well. The sky is the limit.
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
Monday, November 12, 2007
Radio Control Scale Models techniques
One of the joys of the Radio Control Aircraft hobby, is to build oneself or get to see a scale model aircraft. This is referred to as scratch building. Some people use the term including the use of plans, whilst others prefer it to mean starting with a blank sheet of paper. The building techniques vary. Some still use balsa wood which is a very light wood although it comes in different grades. Some are very soft and light others hard and heavier. Choice depends on what part of the aircraft it is being used for.
With the plans ready to go, one of the problems that one comes across is curves in the fuselage.
However, whilst some can be sanded to shape from soft balsa wood, how about where this won't work? This is where planking comes in, just as has been used for ages in boat building.Thin strips of balsa are curved around and glued- some use ammonia and water to bend stubborn shapes. Another material used is fiberglass - molds are made, male and female thus it is easy to make other models from these. There are other "spaceage" materials that can be used e.g. carbon fibre and kevlar.
Another great material is foam. It comes in a light beaded soft form, a heavier blue and pink and a special foam that has 'memory' which is harder to cut but is strong and holds it's shape. These materials can either form a part of the radio controlled model or most of it. The common way to cut these foams is with a hotwire stretched across a "bow"supplied with a power source.
With the plans ready to go, one of the problems that one comes across is curves in the fuselage.
However, whilst some can be sanded to shape from soft balsa wood, how about where this won't work? This is where planking comes in, just as has been used for ages in boat building.Thin strips of balsa are curved around and glued- some use ammonia and water to bend stubborn shapes. Another material used is fiberglass - molds are made, male and female thus it is easy to make other models from these. There are other "spaceage" materials that can be used e.g. carbon fibre and kevlar.
Another great material is foam. It comes in a light beaded soft form, a heavier blue and pink and a special foam that has 'memory' which is harder to cut but is strong and holds it's shape. These materials can either form a part of the radio controlled model or most of it. The common way to cut these foams is with a hotwire stretched across a "bow"supplied with a power source.
Saturday, November 10, 2007
Fuels for RC Aircraft
Naturally, batteries are used to propel electric models . The chainsaw type engines run on petrol and diesel motors run on ether - based fuel. So, the remaining glow plug (a small type of spark plug) 2 and 4 stroke engines run on a methanol- based fuel. The lubricant is either castor oil, synthetic oil or a mixture of both. Some flyers still like the insurance of having some castor present e.g. (3-5 % or whatever). Then to give a better idle a chemical called nitromethane can be added. Personally I only use it for small engines .049 cu in etc and four strokes. The manufacturer specifies the proportions for proper performance.
e .g. 80% Methanol/20 % castor. An afterun oil is usually squirted into the engine at the end of flying as corrosion can get to the metal parts - especially if using nitromethane. There can be big savings to be had by mixing up one's own fuel.
Naturally, batteries are used to propel electric models . The chainsaw type engines run on petrol and diesel motors run on ether - based fuel. So, the remaining glow plug (a small type of spark plug) 2 and 4 stroke engines run on a methanol- based fuel. The lubricant is either castor oil, synthetic oil or a mixture of both. Some flyers still like the insurance of having some castor present e.g. (3-5 % or whatever). Then to give a better idle a chemical called nitromethane can be added. Personally I only use it for small engines .049 cu in etc and four strokes. The manufacturer specifies the proportions for proper performance.
e .g. 80% Methanol/20 % castor. An afterun oil is usually squirted into the engine at the end of flying as corrosion can get to the metal parts - especially if using nitromethane. There can be big savings to be had by mixing up one's own fuel.
Sunday, November 4, 2007
RC Model Aircraft
RADIO CONTROL MODEL AIRCRAFT
When one sees a model airplane with a real turbojet engine streaking across the sky it takes the mind back to the early days of the hobby. I never was involved in the free flight models that were made of tissue and dope and were launched into the air with settings to make the plane circle or just fly for distance and duration. I think I had some rubber power ones as my first models .
I next entered the control line area, which had plastic bodies, a tiny .049(cubic inch) Cox engine and control lines to guide the aircraft in a circle until the fuel ran out.In passing there also existed diesel engines, running 0n an ether based fuel which ignited on compression the engine having a screw lever at the top to alter the compression. The 2 control lines allowed some basic aerobatics to be performed, like loops, inverted flying, etc. Also like so many kids I built stick together plastic display planes. This would have been the catalyst for many a young lad to proceed further.
After this very brief overview of the history of model aircraft (which passes over the very early pioneers in times long past) we can consider the present day scene. First, a list of the many types of aircraft would be a good start- gliders, turbojet, old timer, scale, stand-off scale, sport,pylon,helicopters, 3-D light framed which can fly in a small area, hang on the prop, etc and ducted fan(not a pure jet engine but rather a 2-stroke engine with an internal fan) etc.
And engines : 2-stroke( these engines can also replace the muffler with a tuned pipe which increases power), 4-stroke, diesel (less common), 2 stroke brush cutter engine (adapted from a brush cutter), turbojet engines, electric engines and other less common types. Yet, notice the new kid on the block.He's been around for a while- electric, but now with the advent of powerful batteries (Lipo) is a force to be reckoned with and will save flying fields with its' quietness factor.
And onto the materials used to construct the models. Firstly the old balsa wood/doped tissue will always be around. Fabric film and dope gave a stronger finish then came along shrinkable plastic, then there were foam wings, tailplanes, cutout with a hot wire and covered in balsa. Of course this is just a summary of some of the materials in an age when there is carbon fibre, fibreglass, kevlar, white and pink foams and foams which have a "memory"and are almost destructable and return to shape.Once again this only touching the surface as one could talk on papier mache, corrugated plastic etc.
Don't like building a plane, only interested in flying?- no problems, for a cheap price you can get an ARTF (almost ready to fly- just needs some minor assembly) or RTF (ready to fly) from your local hobby shop. A lot of these planes are simply fanastic.
Where to fly? Local councils and hobby shops can advise. Beware the liability factor if you fly in a localpark and brain someone. My advice is to join a club and you will get insurance cover, make great friendships, and learn from an instructor. Also you can see what the majority of equipment is being used before you buy.
When I started off people used to say get a 40 engine (0.4 cubic inch) and a 60 inch high wingspan model. Many would still say that but my suggestion would be a powered glider because the landing speed is slow (less stress on the pilot). The other matter is the configuration of the control sticks on the transmitter. Choose what's most popular at the club because it can be hard to get an instructor if you choose a minor control stick configuration. MODE 2 is setup like a real aircraft, whilst Mode1 is slightly different.
One of the great things about the radio control flying hobby is that you can design, build, experiment and fly your aircraft of choice.
Happy and safe flying.
I next entered the control line area, which had plastic bodies, a tiny .049(cubic inch) Cox engine and control lines to guide the aircraft in a circle until the fuel ran out.In passing there also existed diesel engines, running 0n an ether based fuel which ignited on compression the engine having a screw lever at the top to alter the compression. The 2 control lines allowed some basic aerobatics to be performed, like loops, inverted flying, etc. Also like so many kids I built stick together plastic display planes. This would have been the catalyst for many a young lad to proceed further.
After this very brief overview of the history of model aircraft (which passes over the very early pioneers in times long past) we can consider the present day scene. First, a list of the many types of aircraft would be a good start- gliders, turbojet, old timer, scale, stand-off scale, sport,pylon,helicopters, 3-D light framed which can fly in a small area, hang on the prop, etc and ducted fan(not a pure jet engine but rather a 2-stroke engine with an internal fan) etc.
And engines : 2-stroke( these engines can also replace the muffler with a tuned pipe which increases power), 4-stroke, diesel (less common), 2 stroke brush cutter engine (adapted from a brush cutter), turbojet engines, electric engines and other less common types. Yet, notice the new kid on the block.He's been around for a while- electric, but now with the advent of powerful batteries (Lipo) is a force to be reckoned with and will save flying fields with its' quietness factor.
And onto the materials used to construct the models. Firstly the old balsa wood/doped tissue will always be around. Fabric film and dope gave a stronger finish then came along shrinkable plastic, then there were foam wings, tailplanes, cutout with a hot wire and covered in balsa. Of course this is just a summary of some of the materials in an age when there is carbon fibre, fibreglass, kevlar, white and pink foams and foams which have a "memory"and are almost destructable and return to shape.Once again this only touching the surface as one could talk on papier mache, corrugated plastic etc.
Don't like building a plane, only interested in flying?- no problems, for a cheap price you can get an ARTF (almost ready to fly- just needs some minor assembly) or RTF (ready to fly) from your local hobby shop. A lot of these planes are simply fanastic.
Where to fly? Local councils and hobby shops can advise. Beware the liability factor if you fly in a localpark and brain someone. My advice is to join a club and you will get insurance cover, make great friendships, and learn from an instructor. Also you can see what the majority of equipment is being used before you buy.
When I started off people used to say get a 40 engine (0.4 cubic inch) and a 60 inch high wingspan model. Many would still say that but my suggestion would be a powered glider because the landing speed is slow (less stress on the pilot). The other matter is the configuration of the control sticks on the transmitter. Choose what's most popular at the club because it can be hard to get an instructor if you choose a minor control stick configuration. MODE 2 is setup like a real aircraft, whilst Mode1 is slightly different.
One of the great things about the radio control flying hobby is that you can design, build, experiment and fly your aircraft of choice.
Happy and safe flying.
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